Cuba
20 November to 5 December 2014
Upon our return to London, I've been asked, "How was Cuba"? The idea of answering with a simple response of "Good", or "Great fun", bears no resemblance to the simplicity of this question. Cuba was an education, miraculous, enchanting, fascinating and beautiful.
Cuba is currently a Communist country with it's ideology entrenched in the hearts and minds of the people of Cuba. Scratch the surface and you'll soon learn they have very little choice over how they live their lives.
I've come to learn Communism is great in theory, but for a reasonable quality of life, it fails to deliver a tenable and reliable life style for those with the simplest needs.
In Cuba, education is free, right up to University level, delivering a life

of possibilities to allow anyone to reach their potential and aspirations. Should your passion be to dance on the professional stage as a classically trained ballerina, you have the opportunity provided to you without the restraints of a life time of debt or the problems involved in gaining a University education. The same idea pertains to becoming a specialist in Accident and Emergency medical practice, a Lawyer, or a School Teacher. You can be what you want to be, for free. Mind you, your regular income will be around £15 per month, no matter what your occupation. And this is where the concept of Communism begins to fail.
Havana
It's clear to see when the Americans left Cuba around 1951 and took their money with them, at the same time Cuba sided with Russia, the change to Communism was instigated. Once the Russian economy collapsed and their high import of Cuban goods were slashed practically overnight, the Cuban economy severely suffered.
Where once fancy casinos, expensive hotels and liveable apartments in Havana once stood in their opulence and grandeur, now stand in ruin with concrete cance; hotels and casinos boarded up with brick. Occasionally, we stumbled upon piles of rubble, reminders of once where buildings stood; other buildings have entire walls missing. Some foot paths are cracked and broken in places and in other places they are missing all together, except in the main streets.
The wealthy tourists took advantage of the free hotels, entertainment and women; however, there was an expectation these wealthy tourists would lose a million dollars at the Havana casinos.
The locals are friendly, well educated and understand how the tourists are propping up their economy. Cuba’s economy is currently teetering on collapse.
Speaking to the locals, we met one young man (who I promised not to name him on the internet) who teaches baseball at a local secondary school. He took us to his home where we met his friend who works in the local cigar factory. Whilst waiting for another customer to finish their purchase, we discussed, in hushed tones, the government and how they take care of their people. He showed me his ration book. Our new friend outlined how rationing works; 1 bar of soap per person, per household, per month; 1 kilo of rice per month, 1 bottle of clothes washing detergent per month, a portion of meat and the list goes on. Each time they'd have to queue up at the ration store to collect their government supplied groceries. If they needed anything more, forget it. If Cubans want to remain out of prison, they don't talk about the government out loud and they definitely don't talk to tourists in public places. There is a distrust with their neighbours.
The coast line in Cuba is beautiful, but as they are a self-sufficient country some oil fields line a couple of beaches with a refinery nearby. There is a distinct presence of lead in the air from petrol fumes; there is no unleaded petrol in the country for their Pontiacs and Cadillacs. The lead from the petrol fumes makes your teeth tingle.
We watched a documentary on Cuba whilst there. A couple of things stayed with me about how the Government works; Sugar Cane Farmers are allowed to grow a number of plants, say 998. If the Farmer has 999 plants, the extra singe plant is torn out. If the Farmer is growing anything else, it is destroyed. Everything has it place and a place for everything.
One woman interviewed told her story how she had been waiting for 16 years for the ground floor ceiling (first level, floor) of her home to be repaired. It was caving in, being help up with impromptu scaffolding made from discarded planks of wood. Not very safe. On the first level of her home no one could walk in certain areas, in fear of falling through. The Government hadn’t approved her repair, of her Government owned home. She was waiting for the Government approved Builder to turn up with the Government approved supplies to undertake the Government approved repairs; 16 years in waiting.
Travelling about Cuba from point to point
is best done by tourist bus, to put that into
perspective, air-conditioned coaches.
On our way to Cienfuegos, we stopped
at a road side fuel stop with the
obligatory food and drink stands and cigar
sellers. It was great to see how close
Australia was to us.
In the middle of Cuba, as you can see by
the road sign, Australia is only 1 KM away.
We should've popped in for a coffee.
Ration Book




Topaz Restaurant
This restaurant was fantastic with amazing views of the city. the food was great and very well presented. The staff were very courteous. Wine far too expensive but with the ambience of the views it is worth it.
Vinales
We took a day tour to Vinales, from Havana. Apart from the initial problems of getting on a Tour bus, it was a great experience. The Tour Company took our money, wrote down our names, gave us the information required to take the tour and we arrived very early at the correct location ... the woman at the Tour Desk claimed to make the booking, yet two different bus drivers had no record. After much disgruntled Darren conversation at the woman in question, miracles occurred and the Tour Bus turned up to whisk us away to Vinales (said Bus Driver returned to pick us up, bless him for fixing madam's error).
Along the way we visited a bottling plant where they make a plant-based
alcoholic drink from a fruit with a very bitter taste, almost like a strong liquorice flavour.
We also visited the local caves where the Taíno once inhabited this area, before Christopher Columbus invaded and obliterated them; they were an Arawak people who were one of the major indigenous peoples of the Caribbean. At the time of European contact in the late 15th century, they were the principal inhabitants of most of Cuba and other areas. The caves were very similiar to the caves in Halong Bay (Viet Nam - Hanoi), but not as beautiful.
The Tanio once lived in and around the caves, natural to this volcanic area. They are now used as a tourist attraction, allowing toursits to ride in powered motorboats throughout.
We had lunch in the Valley of Vinales, with a spectacular view of rock paintings on the side of one of the mountains. If you look to the bottom of the mountain, to centre right, you will see two people standing at the base of the mountain. This will give you an idea of the sheer size of the paintings.
After lunch we visited a tabacco plantation and watched a brief instruction on how to roll a cuban cigar. No sweaty leg was involved in rolling said cigar.





Cienfuegos
We travelled to Cienfuegos via tourist bus to explore more of Cuba. A small town on the south coast of Cuba, about 250 KMs from Havana and stretches along the coast. Not much happens in Cienfuegos and that's a blessing. There are a couple of music clubs tourists can visit and there is the National Theatre.
Here we stayed in Hostal "Casa verde 3709", a Casa (private home) and many Cubans renovate their homes into private rooms with bathroom and shower. The facilities of our little Casa and our hosts were perfect with home made breakfasts and dinners, food was plentiful. With other travelers around, we met three young people from Alaska, one a Nurse, who shared her thoughts of moving to London to live and work. They were cycling around Cuba, part camping, part staying in Casa's. I thought my Aunt Kath could take up this holiday, yet I'm not sure about the camping.
Here, there are plenty of craft markets, cheap and delicious restaurants and the most amazing ice cream parlour I've ever seen. I think it had the steadiest stream of customers than any other restaurant with twice as much as floor space.



Trinidad
After Cienfuegos came Trinidad again via tourist bus, a wonderful short journey. Trinidad has been one of UNESCOs World Heritage sites since 1988.
We found ourselves in the local square of Trinidad, a much smaller town than Cienfuegos. Trinidad's main industry is tobacco processing. The older parts of town are well preserved as the Cuban tourism industry sees benefit from tour groups. In contrast, some parts of town outside the non-tourist areas are very run down and in disrepair, especially in the centre.
We stayed at a Casa by the name of Hostal Coatzacoalcos and it certainly was awful. Akin to a cow shed with a bed and a bathroom containing a shower and when I say shower, I mean a space with a nozzle leaking tepid water. If there was a lull in the constant ear-piercing noise from the cross-road intersection of cars, trucks, motor bikes, stereo car systems, tooting horns, screaming men, women and children, street sellers, prostitutes and a barking dog, the constant sound of the owner's bubbling fish tank, squeaking hinges on the window shutters and the child watching TV until after nidnight, kept us awake. I came to the conclusion the room we had to suffer was once a car garage at the front of the house, but I could be wrong. Could be.
Trinidad is a wonderful town to visit, with much to see and do. We visited the cobbled stoned-streets of the old city, the original settlement. Again, there are plenty of restaurants, craft markets and museums to visit. Interestingly, the town becomes less busier once the visiting Tourist have left for the day and the locals come out to play. The restaurants are busy with Cuban bands playing to delicious menus of Spanish inspired food.
Topes de Collantes
We took a day tour in a private car up to the mountains into Topes de Collantes with a second couple visiting Cuba, two Irish women; Anne-Marie and Sinead.
Topes de Collantes is a nature reserve park in the Escambray Mountains range in Cuba, the third highest peak in the reserve. More than 40 indigenous species of orchids and 100 species of ferns, wild plantain and banana trees, jasmine, begonias, several representatives of the ginger family and around 40 species of coffee are growing under the shade of giant 40 meter tall pines, eucalyptus, West Indian Mahogany and magnolias making this tropical rainforest an amazing place to visit.
We started our tour of Topes de Collantes at a lookout over Trinidad and the ocean. It was an amazing view over mountains towards and the wind was very strong.
Next stop was the Sanatarium / Health Spa to order lunch, we'll be back to the Sanatorium restaurant later today. The sanatorium was built in 1954 for tuberculosis patients, years later being converted into a hotel.
Walking through the deep forrest and overgrowth, we came across many banana trees, coffee plantations and watercourses. We stopped for a short time to swim in a natural water spring. Being a natural water hole, it was very cold, but refreshing.
We headed walked for a number of hours and eventually made our way back to the restaurant for lunch.
After lunch we made our way to a coffee manufacturer, showing everything from drying out the coffee fruit to produce the bean, then crushing the bean and cooking it to define its roasting quality. It's a long drawn out process for something so quickly consumed and enjoyed.
Later that night we caught up with Anne-Marie and Sinead for dinner in Trinidad. The evening was nothing short of hilarity and good food and wine.










Havana
After a 7 hour hideous coach trip back to Havana (the bus driver got lost many times, decided to stop for a 90 minute impromptu lunch break, picked up random strangers and then dropped them off, no where near where we were supposed to go, and the best one was stopping to do his grocery shopping from a road side street seller - only in Cuba).
I've not mentioned, until now, our original accommodation in Havana was never completed, built, as in liveable upon our arrival into Havana. After many promises of being built and completed, it turns out our accommodation is finally finished. We get to spend three nights in the Luxury Apartment we booked and paid for two weeks. It's the first time we have booked accommodation over the internet that didn't exist. We were very lucky to have the owners at hand, genuinely wanting to provide some type of accommodation and their plan B accommodation choices were satisfactory, not brilliant, but satisfactory.
It was great to be back in Havana. We found, what became to be, our regular bar. Our final restaurant meal was at an amazing restaurant called, La Guarida. A very special restaurant with great ambiance and fantastic food.
Our final day in Havana was an adventure. As in Cuba, an adventure is always around the corner. Taxis are not always a Taxi, but someone with a car who is willing to earn a few dollars to take you anywhere you want to go. After trying to organise a Taxi with the Apartment owners and them failing to get it organised (surprise, surprise) we walked the street and found a man talking to a couple of woman, looking like they were organising a Taxi. The man saw us, our suitcases and realised what was going on. He said, "Taxi?" and we said yes. His friend didn't want to come along for the three hour drive to the airport, but eventually with a little coaching, he agreed.
We set off for the airport, via a petrol station to fill the tyres with air (they were almost deflated when we got to the airport) and to fill up with petrol, using a piece of wood to determine how much petrol was left in the tank, akin to checking the oil.
The Government doesn't allow for private cars to drop off people at the airport, only Government Taxis and Coaches are allowed. So, to stop any suspicion with the Airport Government Security, the Driver and his friend both gave us a hug farewell and waved us goodbye before they drove off.









Hostal Casa Verde 3709
Didn't know what we'd expect from staying in a 'casa' but boy was this perfect. Baby & Yosvany were the perfect hosts, even though we spoke little Cuban/Spanish and them English. They were such wonderful people and treated us so so well. The room was nice and suitable and even had a TV. The breakfast was immense and very hearty, so were the evening meals and better than some restaurants we had visited.
Would highly recommend staying here and in many ways better than staying in a hotel. They're situated in the heart of the city so everything you need is close by.
Thank you again for our stay - Jermine & Darren
Las Mamparas
great lunch time meal we thoroughly enjoyed the food here - loved it. nice surroundings and staff very coureous
Artedel Luxury Penthouse
We stayed in this Penthouse for 2 nights as the penthouse we were meant to be staying was not ready! We would like to thank the host for helping out at short notice and that we thoroughly enjoyed this beautiful penthouse. Fantastic views, great decor and very safe
Casa Concordia
Originally wanted to book this but decided on taking a chance on booking the Tropicana Penthouse from the same owners. Anyway we stayed here 3 nights and will say it is a nice apartment and nicely maintained. It was great being in the heart of the city and experiencing city life. We had the whole apartment but ideal for 6 people, so for families or good friends. Our only gripe would be with the water system failing on us for almost a day which required us to be inventive - otherwise would recommend
Old Square (Plaza Vieja)
Totally loved Havana it was a fantastic and vibrant city! Easy to get around and would say walking is the best way to explore the city! But the classic cars are amazing Amazingly friendly people too!
El Malecon
Totally loved Havana it was a fantastic and vibrant city! Easy to get around and would say walking is the best way to explore the city! But the classic cars are amazing It was a treat walking down here twice! A couple of good bars and restaurants too along here.
Old Havana
Totally loved Havana it was a fantastic and vibrant city! Easy to get around and would say walking is the best way to explore the city! But the classic cars are amazing.